Category Archive 1964 plymouth push button transmission


1964 plymouth push button transmission

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Plymouth Belvedere

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1964 plymouth push button transmission

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1964 plymouth push button transmission

Volo, IL Powered By SpeedDigital.The sudden disappearance of the pushbutton transmission on Chrysler Corporation vehicles at the end of the model year has resulted in a lot of speculation over the years. Was it simple market pressure?

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Or were they outlawed by the government? That question has been batted about here on CC for several years now. Beforethe regulation of equipment on private cars and trucks was a patchwork of state laws with a little federal law thrown in for some spice. But in the years following the creation of interstate highways, accidents were happening at higher speeds and were claiming more lives. Among them was on page Standard no.

Neutral shall be positioned between reverse and forward drive. In no case shall reverse be positioned adjacent to a forward drive.

Reverse, forward drive and low forward drive may be modified to permit various gear ratios in these positions at the option of the manufacturer. Lowest forward gear selected position shall provide a braking effect for downhill driving and the lowest selected gear shall be locked in at 25 miles per hour and under. The rule concluded by stating that it was to take effect one year and ninety days after publication or April 26, The Federal Register for that date can be perused here.

The shift quadrant of the very last Studebaker produced. And there we are. Studebaker, being a purely Canadian manufacturer as of mid did not care what the U. Government would or would not buy, and thus retained its traditional PNDLR quadrant to the bitter end in Now, back to the Chrysler pushbuttons.

All then-current pushbutton arrangements in Chrysler products placed the Neutral button between those for Reverse and Drive, so on that score the Chrysler buttons were fine.

Park was engaged by a lever adjacent to the buttons. Or would a separate Park lever have complied with the not completely clear rule?Plymouth Belvedere is a series of American automobile models made by Chrysler from to that were marketed under the Plymouth brand. The Belvedere name was first used for a new hardtop body style in the Plymouth Cranbrook line for the model year.

In the Belvedere replaced the Cranbrook as the top trim and became a full model line with sedansstation wagons and convertible body styles. The Belvedere continued as Plymouth's full-sized car untilwhen it became an intermediate, and was replaced after the model year by the Satellitea name originally used for the top-trim level Belvederes.

Introduced on March 31, the Plymouth Cranbrook Belvedere is a two-door pillarless hardtop. It was Plymouth's first such body design and was introduced in response to the Chevrolet Bel Airand the Ford Victoriathe first two-door hardtop in the low-priced American market. The Cranbook Belvedere was the name for the two-door hardtop version of the Cranbrook and built on the same Powering the Belvedere is the Chrysler flathead ForPlymouth kept the Cranbrook Belvedere largely unchanged.

The biggest alteration was to the color scheme; to further distinguish the top-level Belvedere from other Plymouths, the two tones now flowed from the roof over the beltline onto the trunk, which has been referred to as the "saddleback" treatment. Two-tone color schemes were "sable bronze" over suede, black over "mint green", and gray over blue.

Overdrive was made available as optional equipment in the Plymouth. In overdrive, the engine made three revolutions for each rear wheel revolution and four without overdrive. The engine was a complete carryover from Production for and totalled 51, units.

The Belvedere remained a part of the Cranbrook series through the model year, which saw all Plymouth models completely restyled.

In AprilPlymouths received the Hy-Drive semi-automatic transmission. The engine was carried over from with the only enhancement being a slight increase in the compression ratio to 7. The Belvedere replaced the Cranbrook as the top-line offering for Now, a separate model instead of just a two-door hardtop, it was also available as a convertibletwo-door station wagonand four-door sedan.

The two-door hardtop version was now called the "Sport Coupe". Minor styling updates adorned the carry-over body design. For the first time, small chrome tailfins appeared on the rear fenders.

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In MarchPlymouth finally offered a fully automatic transmission, the Chrysler PowerFlite two-speed. Also new was a larger standard engine: a All Plymouths were treated to a major overhaul for the model year. ForPlymouth styling evolved from that of the s. Most notable would be the introduction of the first push-button automatic transmission to appear in an American automobile, and a more dramatic rear-end treatment highlighted by a pair of rakish tail-fins. In earlythe Fury joined the Belvedere line as a special-edition high-performance coupe.

Belvedere remained the top full-line series through InPlymouth added seat belts. InChrysler's chief engineer in a public relations campaign took a Belvedere and had a turbine engine fitted instead of the standard gasoline engine, and was driven across the US. The model year had high sales for the Chrysler Corporation, and for the Plymouth line.Put the shifter in neutral. Disconnect the brown wire on the starter relay it is the neutral switch wire.

Also disconect the other end of the same wire attached to the threaded post on the neutral switch. Now make a long "jumper" wire from a piece of wire in the 14 to 18 gauge range, and attach a male spade terminal to one end on the wire.

Plug that spade terminal into the end of the brown wire that was attached to the starter relay. Hook up an "ice pick" type test light to the end of that same brown, neutral switch wire that is dangling under the car. That is the end you removed from the neutral switch. Now the jumper wire you made, attach to the positive cable on the battery. Loosen the wheel by turning counter clockwise, until it is almost off the end of the cable. Now with the test light pointer ice pick type end in one hand touch it to the threaded post on the neutral switch, while pulling, and pushing the cable in and out of the transmission case.

When you are in the neutral position on the detent, the test light will light up, confirming you are in neutral. Once the light is in a position where the light remains on, rotate the adjusting wheel on the shift cable clockwise until it is against the transmission case. Now you may have to fine tune your adjustment. Usually by turning the adjuster left or right by 1 or 2 holes.

If it is not fine-tuned you end up with an adjustment where you have to push in on the neutral button slightly. The method the factory uses in a service manual never worked for me, so I came up with this method. Give it a try. You can not mess up unless you ground out the hot end of that wire while it is attached to the battery.

After you are satisified with your adjustment, remove the jumper wire, re-install the neutral switch wire, and re-install the small cap screw in the adjuster wheel.

If the probes touch it is zero resistance. When you touch the probes to another pathway it tells if there is a high or low pathway. The terminal on the NSS will show no pathway until it is engaged. If the ohmmeter shows low resistance between the terminal and the case then it is engaged.

March The absolute best way to adjust the buttons is to remove the pan and adjust N for perfect central contact on the neutral saftey switch. Kickdwn linkage. Make sure when throttle is wide open, kickdown linkage is all the way back as well.

That is all there is to it.I have been under the car and played with the adjustment on the cable. I actually got it where nothing would work. We went in small increments all the way from end to end settling back where we started about mid way.

Still no function from first or second button. They will depress part way and eject whatever button is pushed in, but won't push in all the way or stay in.

1964 plymouth push button transmission

I have not pulled the cable all the way out of the case yet as I don't have a lift, but it seems to be jamming at the push button mechanism. Maybe another attempt to keep someone from Hot Rodding like the carb and throttle cable? Any suggestions? How the cables are attached to the dash push-button mecahnism. Thanks to Paul L. Paul L. There are 4 screws I think that hold the instrument bezel in the dash.

If you remove the two bolts that hold the steering column under the dash it gives you a little more room when getting the instrument panel out. You might put a few pieces of masking tape on top of the column to protect the paint. This gives you pretty good access to the shifter mechanism without having to get under the dash. The park cable is a different matter. It is crimped into a steel collar.


It is possible to open it up to free up the cable but unless your careful the collar can break off and then you've got to McGyver something to get it fixed. So I do not recommend trying to take that one off.

But as recommended you first need to get the cable adjusted correctly. The procedure as outlined in the tech section of this website. If you have an analog ohm meter it can be used to make the final adjustment. When it is in neutral the neutral safety switch will be grounded. As you can see when you rotate the adjuster wheel you will get varying resistance. After finding the sweet spot make sure you shift it in and out of neutral a few times to make sure you have got it right as there can be some small amount of variation inherent in the mechanism.

Also make sure the cable is not binding in some way. And as previously stated get the shifter mechanism clean an lube it with some silicone spray. Bob notes: The push-button assembly should NOT be greased! The operating parts mostly slide back and forth, and grease will attract and hold dirt, grit and grime and lead to more problems.

1963, 1964, 1965 Mopar push-button transmission tech tips

A good thorough cleaning with solvents and air pressure, and some silicone spray lube that dries completely, or perhaps some powdered graphite work just fine on the button assembly. Kevin M. It looks like a Rooster comb and as the cable pushes in and out, the rooster comb rotates.

Loosen the cable totally and have someone push the neutral button and hold it. Then adjust the cable until the main point on the rooster comb is sitting on the end of the neutral starting switch.

Insert the screw to hold the adjuster wheel there and then have your assistant press each button to see if the rooster comb goes through all the gears.

Reverse is at one end of the travel and first is at the other end. Incorrect adjustments can lead to jammed buttons. Steve C. It would not take much to produce the effects you've described. Anyway, have a look - you can pull the hairpin and washer?If there more minutes by the credit. I would rate a 7 star.

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1964 plymouth push button transmission

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Gosar Posted on10:12 pm - Oct 2, 2012

Ich bin endlich, ich tue Abbitte, aber diese Antwort kommt mir nicht heran. Wer noch, was vorsagen kann?